The campervan owner's guide to Henley Royal Regatta

There are many major fixtures in the British sporting calendar but one of our favourites is the Henley Royal Regatta.

It’s a five-day annual festival of rowing races – and, just as importantly, a place to picnic, to see and to be seen, along one of the most beautiful stretches of the River Thames.

A visit to the Regatta makes a great campervan holiday. For one thing, there is plenty, beyond the boat races themselves, to draw the visitor to the beautiful and historic town of Henley and the Thames water meadows that surround it. What's more, those meadows are home to some beautiful campsites and touring parks, where you and your camper van are very welcome.

So, read on for our guide to what goes on at the Regatta – and how you and your campervan get the best out of the event. We hope this guide to Henley's many charms will have you packing up your campervan, checking the insurance for campervans is up to date and setting the compass for Henley in no time.

What is it?

Quite simply, Henley Royal Regatta is the world's most prestigious regatta, or rowing race meet. For five days every summer, hundreds of boat crews – from Olympians to school and university teams – head to the small Oxfordshire town of Henley on Thames to take part in over 300 races.

More than 300,000 people turn up to watch the races each year, and Henley Royal Regatta (or 'Henley' as it's known to regulars) has for decades been a staple in the English 'season', that series of prestigious events that also includes the Chelsea Flower Show, Royal Ascot, the Lord's Test Match and Wimbledon.

Henley Royal Regatta: a short history

The Regatta was first held in 1839, when at a public meeting in Henley Town Hall one Captain Edmund Gardiner suggested that "from the lively interest which had been manifested at the various boat races which have taken place on the Henley reach during the last few years, and the great influx of visitors on such occasions", an annual rowing regatta "would not only be productive of the most beneficial results to the town of Henley, but from its peculiar attractions would also be a source of amusement and gratification to the neighbourhood, and the public in general."

Gardiner's proposal was taken up, and the town hosted its first regatta that very year. That first instalment was such a success that, for 1840, the Henley Regatta grew from a one-day to a two-day event. It has since expanded in popularity, growing to three days in 1886, four days in 1906 and five days in 1986. Prince Albert became the first royal patron in 1851, at which point the event became the Henley Royal Regatta.

Those first few years were, in fact, designed more as a public attraction, complete with fair and other amusements and some rowing on the side. Fairly quickly, however, the rowing races became the focus.

With the exception of the two World Wars and 2020’s Covid lockdown, the Regatta hasn't missed a year since its 1839 debut. Its usual slot is the five days that end with the first weekend in July.

How do the races work?

Each race at the Regatta is a head-to-head, with two crews racing the same course of 1 mile 550 yards (2,112 m) from Temple Island, in the middle of the Thames downstream of the town, back upstream to a point near Henley Bridge.

Various knock-out competitions pit race winners against each other: categories include (for both men and women) eights, coxless fours, quadruple sculls (where four rowers each use two oars), coxless pairs, double sculls, and single sculls. Women were not allowed to compete at the Regatta until 1975, but there are now an equal number of men's and women's events.

Athletes include Olympic hopefuls, club and school rowing crews, and university rowing teams. Though for many years the Regatta was a British event, these days rowing crews have descended upon Henley from as far afield as Australia, Canada, the USA, the Ukraine and South Africa – with more than 100 crews in from overseas on a typical year.

The crews and individual rowers competing at Henley have had to earn their right to be there, by coming through a series of qualifying races held a week before the Regatta itself. The qualifying crews are then entered into a draw, which takes place at Henley Town Hall and is open to all.

Watching the Regatta

So, that's how it all works. We haven't yet covered one of the most important details: how can you watch all these feats of aquatic endurance? It turns out that there are a few options for watching the Regatta...

The Henley Royal Regatta is an enormous spectator event. There are various places along both banks of the course where spectators can watch the races. Several of these spots belong, though, to various clubs – rowing and others – and access is reserved for their members. If you are lucky enough to get into one of these sections, meanwhile, you may find certain dress and behaviour codes are imposed.

Like other events in the English 'season', the Regatta has its fair share of exclusivity and dress codes: the uber-prestigious Stewards’ Enclosure, for example, which has the best view of the finish line, is open only to Stewards and their guests, has a strict dress code, and bans the use of mobile phones.

Unless you're well connected and have a freshly pressed suit / dress stowed in the back of the camper, you're probably better off heading for the neighbouring Regatta Enclosure, situated immediately downstream of the Stewards' Enclosure – just a little further away from the finish line, but still a prime spot for watching the latter stages of each race. This enclosure is open to all on payment of the admission fee (typically around £30, with the weekend slightly more expensive than the earlier days) – and there is no dress code.

Elsewhere, on the same (Berkshire) side but a little further downstream (away from the finish line) Remenham Farm runs hospitality enclosures at The Temple Island Enclosure and The Courtyard Enclosure, and bars including the Barn Bar. The Farm is open to the public – certain enclosures will have entrance fees attached, though.

Another option is to book an Umpire's Launch – a small wooden motorboat – to follow a particular race. Launches can be booked at the information point in the main Regatta Enclosure, or at the race start.

Wherever you decide to watch the event, be aware that Henley gets extremely busy during Regatta week. Try to leave the campervan at your campsite (we've picked out a few below) and, if you do need to head into town, check that your campervan insurance covers against any eventualities.

What else is there to see around Henley?

In short: plenty. Your first trip could simply be to head a little way into town to enjoy the view of the river, Regatta and townscape from Henley Bridge, the elegant 18th-Century stone bridge over the Thames.

In the town itself, you'll find the River and Rowing Museum, which holds over 20,000 items related to life and sport on and beside the river. Key areas of the museum cover the international sport of rowing; the history of Henley on Thames; the story of the Thames itself; the artist, printmaker and designer John Piper, who lived at Henley; and the classic children’s story The Wind in the Willows. The latter's author, Kenneth Grahame, lived at Cookham near Henley. Two stately homes near the town, Fawley Court and Mapledurham House, have both been mooted as inspirations for Toad's fabulous and opulent riverside residence, Toad Hall.

Elsewhere in the town of Henley itself, you'll find a thriving shopping scene, with a great range of independent shops and boutiques. You can browse everything from art and second-hand books to men's and women's fashion and beautiful, handmade rugs from around the world.

Henley's pretty streets, meanwhile, will be familiar to viewers of long-running TV detective series Midsomer Murders, as the town (renamed Causton) featured prominently in the series. You can arrange a walking tour around some of the series' key locations with Midsomer Tours. Or, if you'd rather head off into the nearby countryside, Henley & Goring Ramblers run a programme of local walks at which everyone is welcome.

The town is also full of pretty, traditional English pubs, such as the Row Barge pub and hotel in West Street, The Anchor in Friday Street and The Bird In Hand on Greys Road. Real ale fans, meanwhile, should set off on the Henley Ale Trail, a great way to enjoy local craft ales whilst taking in some of Henley’s finest historic buildings.

More festivals in Henley

The Regatta isn't the only major annual event to choose Henley's beautiful surroundings for a base. The same stretch of river hosts the annual Rewind Festival, a smorgasbord of 1980s music nostalgia – 2021’s lineup includes Scots popsters Wet Wet Wet and a full symphony orchestra belting out the hits of Queen. The 2021 Rewind takes place just a week after the Regatta, on the weekend of 20th-22nd August, so you could stick around and make a fortnight of it.

If the Regatta has given you a taste for all things aquatic, meanwhile, you may want to return for the Thames Traditional Boat Festival ( 27th-30th August), an annual four-day festival of family fun, food, drink, music, shopping, antiques – and boats galore, including classic river craft and some of the many 'Little Ships' that made it over to Dunkirk to bring British soldiers back from France during World War Two.

Those seeking space and recreation, meanwhile, have the choice of three beautiful National Trust properties near Henley. Greys Court is a Tudor country house and garden just outside town; Basildon House features a home from the 1950s within an 18th Century stately home, just along the Thames; and Nuffield House was home to one of Britain's most successful businessmen and car manufacturers: Lord Nuffield aka William Morris, founder of the Morris Motor Company.

Further afield, the historic university city of Oxford is just 25 miles or 50 minutes' drive to the north-west, while the equally historic town of Windsor, home to Windsor Castle and Legoland, is 35 minutes in the opposite direction.

Where to stay?

There are a selection of beautiful campsites near Henley where campervans are welcome. Everyone's delighted to be out and about enjoying the English countryside, so places are booking up fast. Add 'book campsite now' to your to-do list, just under 'check campervan insurance is up to date' – and away you go…

Swiss Farm Camping
Five-star, landscaped campsite, and touring park just outside town. On-site restaurant, café, bar, and lounge; shop and children's play area; beautiful grounds for walks.

Henley Four Oaks
Campsite and touring park, around 20 minutes' walk into town. Playground on site.

Red Kite Camping
This is one for families who like to get back to basics. No electricity, wi-fi or showers – it's all about escaping the rat race here. Small campervans are welcome.

Hurley Riverside Park
This campsite and touring park is idyllically sited on meadows beside the Thames just a few miles downstream from Henley.

Shop, shower, launderette, children's playground, table tennis, obstacle course, nature trail and a beautiful riverside area for picnics. Canoes and paddle boards for hire.

Protect your summer trip with campervan insurance

We're excited for the return of Henley Royal Regatta this summer. It's just another reason to get out and enjoy the Great British Summer – and there are few better ways to do that than at the wheel of a campervan.

At Lancaster Insurance, we can help you get out on the road again with tailored campervan insurance.

Benefits of cover through us can include:

• Motorhome Club member discounts
• EU cover up to 90 days
• Windscreen Cover
• 24 Hour Claims Helpline

Contact us today to find out more about our campervan insurance packages.

Policy benefits, features and discounts offered may very between insurance schemes or cover selected and are subject to underwriting criteria. Information contained within this article is accurate at the time of publishing but may be subject to change.