05 July 2021
Restoring a classic car can be a hugely rewarding process. This is work that requires real concentration and dedication, and will get you deep inside the working parts of your chosen vehicle. It will take time and patience, but you will feel the sort of connection to your motor that just won’t be possible with something bought off the showroom floor.
Done properly, you could also save yourself significant amounts of money – and you’ll have a genuine motoring classic at the end of it, along with buckets of pride at your achievement.
Of course, the major issue you’ll have is finding the right spare parts for your vehicle. With that in mind, the cars we’ve chosen as restoration projects were once a familiar face on our roads for decades, meaning that parts are still in widespread circulation. It’s a good idea, though, to do some research before buying, and check that the parts for your chosen vehicle are still widely available.
Remember to check each vehicle thoroughly, in the company of a specialist if you can borrow one; and be sure to join an owners club. These clubs are an inexhaustible supply of knowledge, advice, parts and – should you need it – moral support.
Invest in some good classic vehicle insurance to keep your much-loved motor safe – and don’t forget to read our definitive guide to classic car restoration.
Here, then, are our 10 suggestions for classics you’ll want to get up and running again.
Say ‘sports car’ and the image that will pop into many minds is of the Porsche 911. The German car giant’s iconic high-performance coupé has flourished, much loved and relatively little changed, since its launch almost 60 years ago.
A brief note on numbers. While the car has always been sold as the 911 since 1963, Porsche has devised its own internal numbers for each generation, and these are known and used by 911 enthusiasts. So, the first generation (1964-1975) is, confusingly, the 911 proper; the second, from 1975 to 1989 and very similar in looks to its predecessor, is the 930; and so on.
The 911 is now onto its eighth generation (with a fair few subtle restyles within each of those), so you have a wide field to choose from. For many enthusiasts, the early 1964-73 models with metal bumpers are considered the quintessential 911s; if you’re looking for reliability, however, you’re probably best off looking at models from 1984 (i.e. later 930s) and onward.
The last air-cooled generation, the 993 (1994-98) remains very desirable among Porsche enthusiasts, somewhat sleeker than its 964 predecessor (1989-93) and seen by many as the model where Porsche got it just right. Good examples won’t be cheap, though.
The 996 (1999-2004) is relatively unloved – both because it was the first to be water- rather than air-cooled, departing from a strong Porsche tradition, and also because of the change to its front headlights, from the classic ‘bubble’ shape to a more extended ‘fried egg’ look – but this means that this generation tends to be cheaper on the used market.
We’d urge a pretty thorough inspection of your prospective new 911 – particularly the first-generation 911 proper, where rust can be a major factor.
Its earliest examples may only be just over 30 years old, but the Mazda MX-5 seems to have enjoyed ‘classic car’ status for some time now. The reasons for this aren’t hard to find: through each of its four generations, the MX-5 has been an affordable and great-looking two-seater that handles like a dream – and the perfect introduction to sports cars for many buyers.
Produced from 1989 to 1998, the first-generation MX-5 makes for an excellent restoration project. For one thing, the car’s sheer popularity means that there are a great many MX-5 owner communities and parts specialists out there.
The engines, typically for Mazda, are extremely reliable and shouldn’t need much attention. Just look out for rust, which can be a particular issue on those first-generation models.
Also, of course, the fact that there are so many MX-5s out there means that the used buyer is spoilt for choice. Even better, after your restoration project is done you’ll be the proud owner of one of the most involving, fun-to-drive sports cars in history. You’ll want to put the MX-5 through its paces, so make sure your classic car insurance is fit for purpose.
Early examples are prone to rust, but the engines – as you’d expect from Mazda – are virtually bullet-proof and shouldn’t need much work.
Granted, it’s something a little different to the rest of the cars we’ve featured here – but the Land Rover does share with the Mini and Morris Minor the status of a genuine British motoring icon.
And, in fact, as a restoration project it shouldn’t be too daunting. The ‘Landy’s ubiquity as a farm vehicle and general off-road workhorse means that spare parts are in good supply.
Another thing to note is that Land Rovers are usually assembled with the use of bolts, rather than welding, which makes any restoration much easier to undertake – no need to dig out the welder here.
Most common reliability issues are linked to the axle and suspension, and the electrics. These are potentially complex areas, so bear these problems in mind if you’re planning to restore the car yourself rather than getting professional help. Other than these issues, though, Land Rovers are fairly simply designed – a key part of their rugged, unfussy image – so shouldn’t present many headaches for even the first-time restorer.
The Golf has gone through eight generations since first appearing on the market as a distinctly compact small hatchback in 1974. As a used buy, each of the past generations has something to recommend them: the Mk2 and, even more so, the Mk1 can justifiably call themselves classics now, especially in GTI form; the Mk5 took a leap forward from its predecessor in key categories such as comfort and safety.
For a restoration project, though, we’d probably recommend the Mk4 (1997-2003). The fact that its halo model, the famous GTI, was something of a disappointment compared to previous GTIs has made the Mk4 less of a cult favourite on the used circuit, and as such probably more of a bargain for you.
You’re likely to come up against a few restoration projects – the car’s wings were prone to rust, the seat bolsters would wear through and the suspension could start to sag. The main take-home, though, is that after you’ve completed these projects, you’ll have a very reliable car that should attain classic status before too long. You’ll want to pair it with some collector car insurance as soon as it’s ready to hit the road again.
This one is easy – for us to choose and, we hope, for you to get to work on.
Basically unchanged throughout its 18 years of production (1962-80), the MGB is one of Britain’s very best-loved sports cars, and now enjoys a thriving afterlife in terms of its parts specialists, wealth of used examples (many of them lovingly looked after) and extremely busy user community – perhaps the best parts and club support network of any old or classic car out there.
You’ll be able to source every single part of your MGB from independent suppliers, or via the helpful MG Owners Club. You can even get hold of an entire new bodyshell if you need to. And if you’re ever thinking of selling on, its much-loved status means that you won’t be short of interested buyers…
There are a few structural issues that you may need to get stuck into. As the MGB is a sports car with no supporting steel roof, its sill structures and transmission tunnel often decay. Look out, too, for rust, particularly anything below the level of the bottom of the doors. You may also want to think about replacing the metalwork – bumpers, air intake, grilles and so on. Go for chrome here, as featured on the original car, rather than modern replacements.
Like a few of the cars we’re mentioning today, the Ford Cortina was a stalwart of the UK car market for decades, from its first iteration in 1962 until its retirement 20 years later.
However, the first three generations of the Cortina, from ’62 until 1976, are now deemed such classics that they may be out of your financial reach – the first two generations prized as archetypal Sixties cars, the third much in demand thanks to its distinctive, Seventies ‘Coke bottle’ contours.
However, The MkIV (1976-79) and its minimally updated successor, the MkV (1979-82), are a good investment for first-time classic car buyers. For one thing, they are among the most traditionally engineered cars of their generation, so they should be a relatively easy restoration project.
Beyond that, the nostalgia appeal is high – these cars were an absolute staple on the roads and drives of late 70s and early 80s Britain, so should bring back some vivid motoring memories. We guarantee you’ll quickly get attached to your restored Cortina, and we’d recommend some classic car insurance to safeguard its future.
The MkIVs were more prone to rust, so a MkV may be your best bet of all. For both models, check for rust and rot in areas such as the A-pillars, inner and outer sills, inner wing, boot floor, and wheel arches.
It may belong to a previous generation even to the rest of the classics we’re discussing here, but one of the great things about the loveable Morris Minor (1948-1972) is that pretty much all the parts you will need are still readily available. Specifications are simple and the parts well-priced, so your budget should remain manageable.
One upgrade you’ll definitely want to make – if it’s not been done already – is to the Minor’s brakes. The car comes from a time when traffic was far less dense than it is now, and you will want to replace the original drum brakes with more effective disc brakes. You may also wish to reconfigure or replace the engine in order to keep up with modern traffic.
Rust and rot are likely to be problems here, both because any Minor you can find will already be of a certain age and also because, as affordable cars, they often weren’t given the very best treatment available during their original working lives. Whatever the road ahead may hold in store for it, it’s a good idea to equip your Minor with some classic motor insurance.
The 2CV has one of the most fascinating origin stories of any of the cars we’re discussing today. The French car marque designed the car as an alternative to the horse and cart for French farmers (the name comes from ‘2 chevaux’ – the car could do the job of two horses). Here was a vehicle they could take to market, even via dirt roads, without spoiling the eggs and sundry other farm produce being stored inside. As such, the 2CV has a distinctively springy suspension, loved by some but not all drivers.
It was popular enough in the UK, though, and many used examples and body parts are still available, making the 2CV a great first restoration project. And when you’re done, you’ll have one of the most distinctive automobiles of the 20th Century.
That bouncy suspension does, however, mean that damage to the car’s chassis is a fairly common issue. Restorers should definitely take a look at the chassis and determine what if, any work, needs to be done before taking the plunge.
The Mini makes it into our list partly for its iconic status (could this be Britain’s best-loved car of all time?); partly because, being such a popular car, there are a good many examples out there (as well as parts, and drivers’ clubs); and partly because the Mini is such fun to drive that there will be hours of pleasurable motoring waiting for you at the end of your restoration project. Make sure your classic car insurance is up to date, and away you go.
As with the MGB above, you can get hold of a complete new bodyshell, should you need to, from British Motor Heritage. And, as with the Land Rover, the engineering is simple, the engines proven in their reliability. Once again we must flag up rust – you’ll want to look in particular detail at the sills, panels, headlight surrounds and wheel arches.
Other things you may want or need to restore include the gearbox, wheels (wheel bearings and ball joints can become worn down), and the engine – Minis can be hard driven so the engine may well need overhauling. The oil pressure gauges can be unreliable, too, so watch out for oil being burnt (clue: blue smoke).
The instantly recognisable Beetle is another of those cars whose sheer popularity makes it a tempting prosect for the restorer. Chances are that, whatever you need in the spare parts line, there will be a good many decent examples out there. The fact that it’s affordable, reliable (in the best VW tradition) and relatively easy to work on presses its case still further.
Produced over an enormous time span (1938-2003), the Beetle unsurprisingly came in a great many versions and specifications. You’re best off going for the standard Beetle, as there will be more spare parts available for this version than for other models. Avoid any badly or extensively modified cars, too, and look for something as original as possible.
Rust is once again something to look for – check, before you buy, that replacements are readily available for any rusted parts or sections.
You may also encounter some engine issues, but the good news here is that, with most engines interchangeable across the Beetle range, you shouldn’t have much trouble winkling out a replacement.
Keep an eye out, too, for chassis rot and weaknesses in those distinctive Beetle running boards. Once again, a Beetle owners’ club will give you clues as to what to look out for and where to find replacements.
Whether you’re just embarking on a restoration or you’re ready to hit the road, the friendly team at Lancaster can help protect your cherished vehicle.
Contact us for a classic car insurance quote when you’re ready.
Policy benefits, features and discounts offered may very between insurance schemes or cover selected and are subject to underwriting criteria. Information contained within this article is accurate at the time of publishing but may be subject to change.